Drywall consists of a thin layer of gypsum between two layers of heavy paper. It is used to make walls and ceilings in most buildings today because it is faster and cheaper to install than plaster.
There are two kinds of drywall workers—installers and tapers—although many workers do both types of work. Installers, also called framers or hangers, fasten drywall panels to the inside framework of houses and other buildings. Tapers or finishers, prepare these panels for painting by taping and finishing joints and imperfections. In addition to drywall workers, ceiling tile installers and lathers also help to build walls and ceilings.
Because drywall panels are manufactured in standard sizes—usually 4 feet by 8 or 12 feet—drywall installers must measure, cut, fit, and fasten them to the inside framework of buildings. Workers cut smaller pieces to go around doors and windows. Installers saw, drill, or cut holes in panels for electrical outlets, air-conditioning units, and plumbing. After making these alterations, installers may glue, nail, or screw the wallboard panels to the wood or metal framework, called studs. Because drywall is heavy and cumbersome, another worker usually helps the installer to position and secure the panel. Installers often use a lift when placing ceiling panels.
After the drywall is installed, tapers fill joints between panels with a joint compound, also called spackle or "mud." Using the wide, flat tip of a special trowel, they spread the compound into and along each side of the joint with brush-like strokes. They immediately use the trowel to press a paper tape—used to reinforce the drywall and to hide imperfections—into the wet compound and to smooth away excess material. Nail and screw depressions also are covered with this compound, as are imperfections caused by the installation of air-conditioning vents and other fixtures. On large projects, finishers may use automatic taping tools that apply the joint compound and tape in one step. Using increasingly wider trowels, tapers apply second and third coats of the compound, sanding the treated areas after each coat to make them as smooth as the rest of the wall surface. This results in a seamless and almost perfect surface. For hard to reach heights and ceilings, sanding poles are commonly used. Some tapers apply textured surfaces to walls and ceilings with trowels, brushes, or spray guns.
Ceiling tile installers, or acoustical carpenters, apply or mount acoustical tiles or blocks, strips, or sheets of shock-absorbing materials to ceilings and walls of buildings to reduce reflection of sound or to decorate rooms. First, they measure and mark the surface according to blueprints and drawings. Then, they nail or screw moldings to the wall to support and seal the joint between the ceiling tile and the wall. Finally, they mount the tile, either by applying a cement adhesive to the back of the tile and then pressing the tile into place, or by nailing, screwing, stapling, or wire-tying the lath directly to the structural framework.
Making walls out of plaster requires the work of lathers. Lathers apply the support base for plaster coatings, fireproofing, or acoustical materials. This support base, called lath, is put on walls, ceilings, ornamental frameworks, and partitions of buildings before plaster and other coatings are added. Lathers use handtools and portable power tools, to nail, screw, staple, or wire-tie the lath directly to the structural framework of a building. At one time, lath was made of wooden strips, but now, it is usually made of wire, metal mesh, or gypsum, also known as rockboard. Metal lath is used when the plaster on top of it will be exposed to weather or water or when a surface is curved or irregular and not suitable for drywall.
Work environment. As in many other construction trades, this work is sometimes physically strenuous. Drywall installers, ceiling tile installers, lathers, and tapers spend most of the day on their feet, either standing, bending, stretching, or kneeling. Some tapers use stilts to tape and finish ceiling and angle joints. Installers have to lift and maneuver heavy, cumbersome drywall panels. Hazards include falls from ladders and scaffolds and injuries from power tools and from working with sharp tools, such as utility knives. Because sanding a joint compound to a smooth finish creates a great deal of dust, most finishers wear masks and goggles for protection.
A 40-hour week is standard, but the workweeks often fluctuate depending on the workload. Workers who are paid hourly rates receive premium pay for overtime.
| 1. | Measure and mark surfaces to lay out work according to blueprints and drawings, using tape measures, straightedges or squares, and marking devices. |
| 2. | Read blueprints and other specifications to determine methods of installation, work procedures, and material and tool requirements. |
| 3. | Fit and fasten wallboard or drywall into position on wood or metal frameworks, using glue, nails, or screws. |
| 4. | Hang dry lines (stretched string) to wall moldings in order to guide positioning of main runners. |
| 5. | Measure and cut openings in panels or tiles for electrical outlets, windows, vents, and plumbing and other fixtures, using keyhole saws or other cutting tools. |
| 6. | Hang drywall panels on metal frameworks of walls and ceilings in offices, schools, and other large buildings, using lifts or hoists to adjust panel heights when necessary. |
| 7. | Assemble and install metal framing and decorative trim for windows, doorways, and vents. |
| 8. | Coordinate work with drywall finishers who cover the seams between drywall panels. |
| 9. | Trim rough edges from wallboard to maintain even joints, using knives. |
| 10. | Cut and screw together metal channels to make floor and ceiling frames, according to plans for the location of rooms and hallways. |
| 11. | Inspect furrings, mechanical mountings, and masonry surface for plumbness and level, using spirit or water levels. |
| 12. | Cut fixture and border tiles to size, using keyhole saws, and insert them into surrounding frameworks. |
| 13. | Cut metal or wood framing, and trim to size, using cutting tools. |
| 14. | Install horizontal and vertical metal or wooden studs to frames so that wallboard can be attached to interior walls. |
| 15. | Scribe and cut edges of tile to fit walls where wall molding is not specified. |
| 16. | Fasten metal or rockboard lath to the structural framework of walls, ceilings, and partitions of buildings, using nails, screws, staples, or wire-ties. |
| 17. | Suspend angle iron grids and channel irons from ceilings, using wire. |
| 18. | Seal joints between ceiling tiles and walls. |
| 19. | Mount tile, using adhesives, or by nailing, screwing, stapling, or wire-tying lath directly to structural frameworks. |
| 20. | Install blanket insulation between studs and tack plastic moisture barriers over insulation. |
| 21. | Install metal lath where plaster applications will be exposed to weather or water, or for curved or irregular surfaces. |
| 22. | Apply cement to backs of tiles and press tiles into place, aligning them with layout marks or joints of previously laid tile. |
| 23. | Nail channels or wood furring strips to surfaces to provide mounting for tile. |
| 24. | Wash concrete surfaces before mounting tile to increase adhesive qualities of surfaces, using washing soda and zinc sulfate solution. |
| 25. | Apply or mount acoustical tile or blocks, strips, or sheets of shock-absorbing materials to ceilings and walls of buildings to reduce reflection of sound or to decorate rooms. |
| 26. | Remove existing plaster, drywall, or paneling, using crowbars and hammers. |
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